Walk down any supermarket aisle and you’ll see promises in pastel—“antibacterial,” “moisturizing,” “dermatologist-tested.” But peel back the labels and a different story emerges: many mass-market bars aren’t even soap. They’re synthetic detergents shaped like soap, optimized for shelf life and shipping costs—not for your skin. As a skin-health obsessive who cares about evidence, here’s the straight talk: a well-formulated handmade soap often cleanses more gently, respects your barrier better, and avoids unnecessary additives. And yes, I’ll show you the receipts.
Background: What is “Soap,” Really?
In regulatory terms, “soap” is fat + alkali → soap + glycerin. If the product is primarily the alkali salts of fatty acids and is marketed only to cleanse, U.S. law classifies it as “soap.” Start adding cosmetic/drug claims or formulating with synthetic surfactants and you’re in cosmetic/drug territory—even if it looks like a bar.
That chemistry matters. The saponification reaction creates glycerin, a powerful humectant that binds water in the stratum corneum. Industrial producers have long treated glycerin as a valuable by-product and frequently recover it from “soap lye” for use elsewhere (think lotions, pharma, food). That practice is documented in chemical engineering literature and patents spanning decades.
Most artisan makers don’t strip glycerin out; they keep it in the bar and often “superfat” (leave a little extra oil unsaponified). That’s the core reason handmade bars can feel kinder on skin.
The Current Scenario: What We Know About Skin, pH & Cleansers
Human skin prefers a mildly acidic surface—on average below pH 5.0—which supports barrier enzymes, reduces TEWL (transepidermal water loss), and keeps the microbiome balanced. Repeated washing with alkaline products pushes pH upward and compromises barrier function.
Dermatology research compares classic soaps to syndet (synthetic detergent) cleansers. Syndets, typically pH-adjusted, tend to be milder on barrier lipids and proteins and show lower immediate TEWL spikes after washing. That’s why medical bodies often recommend fragrance-free syndet cleansers for eczema-prone skin.
There’s another twist: the “antibacterial” boom is over. In 2016, the FDA banned 19 antimicrobial ingredients (including triclosan and triclocarban) in consumer wash products because companies couldn’t prove they were both safe long-term and more effective than plain soap and water.
Where Handmade Pulls Ahead
1) Glycerin stays in the bar
Handcrafted soap retains naturally generated glycerin; industrial workflows commonly recover glycerin from spent lye for separate sale. Keeping glycerin in the bar boosts humectancy during and after the wash—vital in dry climates or in hard-water regions where cleansing is already stressful.
2) “Superfatting” buffers harshness
Artisan makers often formulate with a small surplus of nourishing oils (olive, coconut, shea, etc.). That “superfat” plus intact glycerin can offset the alkalinity of true soap by reducing net lipid extraction from skin during short contact times—a practical, formulation-level cushion aligned with what barrier science tells us. (Mechanism supported by cleanser/barrier literature.)
3) Fewer unnecessary additives
Small-batch soap typically avoids persistent antibacterial agents now discouraged by regulators, and it can be made fragrance-free or with lower allergen loads. Why care? The EU requires explicit labeling of 26 common fragrance allergens—from limonene to eugenol—because they’re frequent sensitizers. Knowing and controlling these inputs matters, especially for reactive skin.
4) Ingredient transparency and iteration
When your maker is one WhatsApp away, you can ask for short INCI lists, allergen-light options, or specific oil blends—responsiveness you won’t get from a mass line.
5) Environmental upside
Traditional soaps are based on renewable oils and are readily biodegradable; industrial processes often recover glycerin (good for waste reduction), but some mass products rely on petro-derived surfactants whose environmental fate is more complex. (Surfactant ecotoxicity and biodegradation are active research areas.)
The Global Angle: One Skin, Many Markets
Regulators differ. The U.S. draws a sharp line between “true soap” and cosmetic/drug claims; Europe focuses intensely on allergen disclosure and cosmetic safety dossiers; pediatric and dermatology bodies worldwide increasingly recommend fragrance-free, mild cleansers for compromised skin. For healthy, non-eczematous skin, a glycerin-rich handmade soap used correctly (short contact, rinse well, moisturize after) can deliver excellent outcomes. For atopic dermatitis or during barrier flares, a pH-adjusted fragrance-free syndet may be the safer call—handmade or industrial. Context is everything.
Key Evidence at a Glance
Skin likes acidic: Lower (sub-5) skin pH correlates with better barrier metrics; soaps and even hard tap water can push pH up temporarily.
Syndet vs soap: Studies show higher immediate TEWL and micro-damage markers after washing with harsher soaps versus pH-balanced syndets. Translation: formulation matters more than the marketing term.
Glycerin is valuable—and often removed industrially: Recovery of glycerin from soap lye is a standard, economically important step in large-scale production; handmade bars usually retain it.
Antibacterial hype, debunked: FDA banned triclosan/triclocarban in 2016 for consumer wash products; no superiority over regular soap and water.
Fragrance allergens are real policy: EU mandates disclosure of 26 allergens due to sensitization risk—use it to guide your bar choice.
Verdict (Sharp, but Fair)
“Handmade is always better” is too simple. “Store-bought is safer” is lazy. The truth is sharper:
For most healthy-skin users seeking minimal, glycerin-rich cleansing with control over fragrance and additives, a well-made handmade soap is often better—kinder feel, simpler inputs, and less marketing fluff.
For eczema, rosacea, or barrier-impaired skin, reach for a fragrance-free, pH-balanced syndet until the skin calms down—then you can test a gentle handmade bar.
How to choose a better bar (quick checklist):
Ask for the full ingredient list and curing time.
Prefer fragrance-free or clearly labeled essential-oil levels if you’re sensitive.
- Look for high-oleic oils (olive, rice bran) and butters (shea) in the first few ingredients; request a superfat of ~3–7% from your maker.
Patch-test; moisturize right after any cleanse.